Day 1
The trip to Kumbakonam went off well as planned covering 14 temples including Kula deivams of Karthik, Jagan and parents’ side of yours truly.
Jayashree and Satish missed the trip due to a family function and we also missed them.
Trip started with eight of us meeting Rajni and Sajjan in Egmore to catch Uzhavan Express on Friday night. After relishing a cup of coffee in A2B, we boarded the train at 22:40 hours, reaching Kumbakonam on Saturday early morning. As usual Jagan fixed a short duration for us to get ready for breakfast and start the pilgrimage. We also took the challenge and got ready within the set time to have a good breakfast at Raya's Grand where we stayed.
Theperumanallur
Our first visit was to Theperumanallur.
Known for special pujas and annadhanam during Pradosha time, I expected the temple to be a typical big temple that I usually see in this region, but was a bit disappointed with the size of the gopuram. But the prakaram inside and the construction as per aagama vidhi made me realise how ancient the temple must be. Initially, we were greeted by closed doors but there were many flower sellers getting ready for their business.
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| Suja drawing Kolam |
A cute young chap of about 10 years opened the temple doors. When Karthik asked him if any elder will do the puja, the small lad replied that he will do it. He not only did the puja but also did a great job of explaining about the temple.
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| Kalyan helping Harshan to open the door |
We entered from the west side entrance and prayed to Lord Ganesha and moved around to see the colourful sculptures. With many a photo session we went around to enter the sanctum to see the Lord in Linga roopam.
We prayed to Lord Naga Viswanathar also known as Rudrakeswarar. Adjacent to this sannidhi was the Rudraksha Lingam, a Lingam totally covered with strings of Rudraksham. When one visits this temple on pradosham day, one gets a Rudraksham as prasadam.
It is said the one who does not have rebirth is only destined to visit this temple. Once Agasthyar wanted to come here and the Lord asked Makarandha Maharishi who was present in this temple to stop Agasthyar as he was not out of the birth-death cycle. Angered, Agasthyar cursed Makarandha Maharishi to become Yazhi faced (yazhi, the legendary animal that has a lion like face). The saapa vimochanam suggested by Agasthyar was to do puja to the Lord here with different offerings / flowers every day without repetition. Makarandha Maharishi followed this for many years and one day during puja, his Rudraksha mala snapped and the Rudrakshas fell on the Lingam as offerings. This is the legend behind the Rudraksha prasadam on pradosham day. The kurukkal was kind enough to give us some Rudrakshams as prasadam!
In Jan 2010 a snake had come into the sanctum with a vilvam leaf plucked by itself right from the vilvam tree in the temple and placed it on the Shivalingam. The snake gained entry into the sanctum via the Abhishekam neer outlet. The snake did this puja to the Lord not once but thrice on the same day!
Also, on another occasion, a full sized skin of a long snake was seen lying on the Rudraksha Lingam which is in a sanctum adjacent to the main sannidhi. A picture of the snake skin can be seen in the temple.
The Ambal named Vedanta Nayaki, stands there majestically, blessing one and all. 10-year-old Harshan, along with an elder person, performed the archanai for us in all the sannidhis.
Next to the Ambal sannidhi, we could see two Bhairavars – one tall and one short along with Sani Bhagawan standing proudly with a hand on his hip. An interesting episode explains these forms here. Once Sani Bhagwan informed Ambal that it was time to afflict the Lord and instead of the 71/2 years applicable to humans, he will affect the Lord for 7/12 nazhigai (1 nazhigai = 24 minutes), he announced. Ambal suggested that Lord Shiva hide behind a tree and she stood guard for the stipulated time. Sani Bhagawan also stood in front of the Goddess for 3 hours. At the end of 3 hours, Sani Bhagwan walked back stating proudly that he made the Lord stand in a place for 7/12 nazhigai. The enraged Lord took the form of a huge Bhairava and tore Sani Bhagawan into two pieces. Later understanding that Sani was after all doing his duty, He calmed down and took the form of santha Bhairavar. Here we can see the tall angry Bhairavar, santha Bhairavar and proud Sani Bhagawan with a hand on his hip.
All this and more details of the temple was narrated cutely by the young priest Harshan.
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Harshan with his sister
He went on to say how navagrahas in this temple face the Sun God in the centre.
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Also, the Dakshinamurthy here is called Annadhana Dakshinamurthy for whom the main neivedhyam is pazhaya saadham and onion. This Dakshinamurthy has Nandhi and Anna paravai as vahaanams and can be seen sitting on both of these. This sannidhi was closed but the curious Suja and I went in and made Harshan explain the other idols here like many naagams, another Lingam and Ambal.
The temple is full of idols of snakes, right from near the gopuram to a huge structure in the line of our pradakshinam. The entrance to the sanctum is a little round shaped due the Sun God praying to the Lord from the Eastern entrance.


Lord Ganesha and Lord Murugan are also seen on either side of the main sanctum.
The kurukkal was kind enough to show us the special flower Krishna pusham in this temple and our own botanist Suja promptly gave the botanical name of the flower - Passiflora coccinea.
After one more pradakshinam and namaskarams we got into the van for our next temple visit.
Thirupampuram
I have been curious about this temple having read
briefly about it many years ago. Also, Rama's father had suggested a visit to
the temple as pariharam for her
children. My curiosity about the temple was its connection with snake, the
Lord's name being Seshapureeswarar.
The main deity Shiva Lingam is quite
ancient and powerful. This stalam is
a parihara stalam for Rahu and Ketu.
Like many other parihara stalams down
south, this also is quite commercial. I am happy that the effect of this
commercialism has not touched the main sanctum!
As we entered, to our right was the sannidhi
of Rahu and Ketu.


Rahu and Ketu stand here in one form with a Lingam on the chest. There is Sani bhagawan also standing nearby. We had a quick darshan and deeparathanai here as a long queue was waiting for Rahu kala abhishekam. We then proceeded to the main sanctum. A fair sized Linga placed on a short Avudai, Seshapureeswarar is named so as the Lord gave saapa vimocham to all the snakes here. Legend goes that once when Pillayar was praying to Lord Shiva, the snake in the Lord's neck proudly thought that Pillayar was praying to him. Lord Shiva cursed that all the snakes lose the power of their poison! The snakes prayed to the Lord in Thirupampuram and got the power of their poison back.
A weary Aadhiseshan, unable to withstand the weight of carrying this world on his back, prayed to the Lord here to get his strength back. One can see Aadhisheshan praying to the Lord n the main sanctum.
Also, the theertham here is called
Aadhiseshan theertham. After praying
at the main sanctum, we went around the temple in circumambulation to pray at
the sannidhi of Malai Eswarar, a Lingam sannidhi built at a slightly
higher level with few steps to climb, Raja Ganapathy, Vanni Eswarar underneath
the sthala vriksham Vanni maram, Murugan and then to the sannidhi of the Goddess. Here the
Goddess is standing in a sannidhi parallel
to the Lord (not perpendicular as we usually see in Sivan temples) such a
beautiful name Vanduserkuzhali, Ambal stands majestically in a large sannidhi and blesses all. Pradakshinam completed with reaching the
very crowded Rahu Ketu sannidhi, we
came out to have a photo session before proceeding to Thirumeeyachur.
Thirumeeyachur
This is my third visit to this temple and the
second one with sabai. A detailed
description of this temple is there in my earlier blog. This time also we could get some new
information from a stranger who volunteered to explain in detail!
We entered the sannidhi of Goddess Lalithambigai hoping to recite Lalitha
Sahasranamam sitting in front of Her. The kurukkal
in charge seemed to be in a bad mood and insisted that we sit only in the
outside corridor to recite the slokam.
A little upset with this objection, we went
further inside and had the opportunity of seeing the abhishekam being performed to the Lord. After deeparathanai we went around the temple and a stranger came up
voluntarily and explained right from the koshta
idols around the sannidhis of the
Lord and Goddess like Nardhana Ganapathy, Ksthera Puraneswarar.
This is a
beautiful sculpture of the God and the Goddess with the God holding the
Goddess’s chin looking as though He is trying to pacify Her anger. But if you
see from another angle, Ambal seems to be all smiles. He also went on the explain how from a
position we can see the Trinity Brahma, Vishnu and Sivan (Lingothbhavar)
together as koshta murthys. Vishnu here is in a praying posture which is not
seen anywhere. He is praying to Lord Shiva.
We went on to see the Ilankoil (a temple inside a main temple) and this man explained
about the Durgai here. She is seen with a parrot in her hand. This parrot acts
as a messenger conveying the bhaktas' wishes and prayers to the Goddess. He
also said that after you pray to her, if you see a real parrot flying near the
gopuram, it is understood that the message has reached the Goddess and the wish
will be fulfilled. This is exactly what happened when we completed our prayer
to Durgai.
Happy with this explanation, we came back to the
Goddess sannidhi to witness full abhishekam, alankaram, followed by our
recital of Lalitha sahasranamam. We were also blessed to get prasadam of chakara pongal and thamboolam
from another group of ladies there. Since we spent a long time here, we had to
cancel our trip to Eravancheri and proceeded straight to Puliancheri - Karthik's kula deivam.
Covering the short distance by van, and after a short
walk on a narrow path flanked by vayal on
one side and vasambu kulam on the
other side, we reached Karumbayiram konda Ayyanar temple and Akasa Veeran sannidhi.
A typical oor ellai koil with the idols of an elephant and a horse in the open, it was a very calm place. It was very pleasant there due to shades by Puliyamaram - reason for the place to be named Pulianchery?
The
poosari first did puja at Aakasa
Veeran sannidhi. This sannidhi does not have a roof and the
Veeran stands along with his consorts Vellai amma and Bommi, wielding his sword,
his legs apart, ready to fight the evil and guard the devotees! After archanai here, we took some photos as
the location was scenic with a calm water canal and lots of greenery! We then had darshan at Karumbiram Konda Ayyanar temple.
We then went to the
Maha Mariamman temple inside the village. A small temple with Goddess in the
main sanctum, this temple has some colourful but ferocious looking idols of the
Goddess, Akasa Veeran with his consorts and Karuppanna Swami.
Behind this temple is an ancient Sivan temple in
a dilapidated state. It was quite dark and we could just make out the Siva Lingam and Ambal in parallel sannidhis.
There was a huge Nandi vahanam, which
is usually used for processions. This looked to be in a better state, maybe
because it is not as old as the temple. We had a quick darshan and got back
into the van as all our tummies were rumbling with hunger.
Rama had arranged for lunch at a known person’s
place and they served us a full thalai
vazhai ilai meal. We had our fill and headed back to the hotel for a
siesta. On the way, I was thrilled to see the name Parithiyur and Aavanam,
native place of my maternal grandmother and made a note to visit this place
once with my sisters!
After resting for an hour, our evening temple
visit began with Swamimalai.
The kurukkal
from Theperumanallur was here for arranging the darshan and we had the
opportunity to witness the evening deepararathanai
and spent quite a long time having the darshan
of my favourite God at close quarters! Happy with the darshan we rushed to
Nallur as the person I had spoken to, had told us to be there by 6:30 pm.
Nallur temple, not exactly my Kula deivam on my paternal side, but a
very important temple for my family. Details are here. This is why I wanted it added
to our kula deivam list
It had become dark by the time we reached, and I
could not show the thirukulam to the
others. This is the theeratham where
sapta sagaram (seven seas) came when Kunti wanted to have a dip in the seven
seas to wash her sin of giving birth to Karna out of wedlock. It is said the sapta sagaram comes here during masi maham. Here is a picture of a sangu taken out of this thirukulam during the masi magam in 2005.
We entered the temple and went straight up to
Kalyanasundareswar Sannidhi. Had a
good darshan here along with Shadari before
going to Girisundari ambal sannidhi.
We then came down to Ashta bhuja Mahakali sannidhi.
Rama could feel the connection with this Goddess so much that she felt She was
talking to her!
I was once again in awe at the size of this
temple with huge walls!
After having a few words with the new people in
charge of festivals, we proceeded to Patteeswaram.
Patteeswaram
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| photo from my earlier blog |
As it was past 8 pm, we thought of having at
least darshan of the Durgai, but were
lucky to visit all sannidhis! Suja and I went in late after buying a lemon
garland and lotus garland. It was so calm there and we had a great darshan of the Goddess who has been
there blessing her devotees with victory right from the Chola period!
We then went in to have darshan of Dhenupureeswarar and Gnanambikai. We recollected the
reason for Nandi being on one side here and muthu
pandal for Thirugnansambandar.
When Thirugnanasambandar went to have darshan of this Lord, the Lord could not
wait to see him, that he asked Nandhi to move aside so that He could see his
devotee! Also, the Lord arranged for a muthu
pandal here for Thirugnanasambandar as he could not bear the child devotee
walking in the hot Sun!
We had to force Rajni to come out of the sannidhi of Dhenupureeswarar, such was
her connection with her Sivan!
We were also happy to have a good darshan of Bhairavar, that day being theipirai ashtami, a day special for
Bhairavar puja.
Suja quickly made some purchases for the next
day’s puja at their kula deivam temple and we proceeded to
Kumbakonam, heading straight to Mangalambikai mess for dinner. We had to enter
via one gate of the temple to go to Kumbeswarar kadai veedhi where the mess is located. We were expecting native
tiffen like arisi upma and adai avaiyal but all these were over and
had to satisfy ourselves with the same old dosai!
To compensate, we had ice-cream at Raya’s before retiring to our rooms for the
night!
Day 2
In our last trip, we could not visit any temple
inside Kumbakonam which was a big disappointment for us. So this time, before
proceeding to Thirukadayur where Jagan’s kula
deivam temple is, we covered a few temples in Kumbakonam.
First was my favourite Sarangapani. Darshan of this Lord brought back many
memories of summer holidays fun with Sabitha and Rohini and seeing this Lord
first time in awe; hearing his stories from my Mom! I looked at Him in awe this
time too. We had darshan of the
Goddess Komalavalli thayar before
climbing the steps to have darshan of
Palli konda Sarangapani, the Lord who
came down in a chariot to earth to marry the Goddess!
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| photo taken during my earlier visit |
We perambulated around the
temple and a stranger asked us go to the sannidhi of Pathala Srinivasar. All
were quite happy to do so as all had wishes of planning a trip to Tirupathi!
Our next visit was to the main temple of
Kumbakonam, Kumbeswarar temple.
Not much crowded in the morning, we had a great darshan of Lord Kumbeswarar and the most
beautiful Goddess, Mangalambikai.
Perambulating around the temple I noticed a
beautiful sculpted idol of Karthikeyar with Valli and Deivayanai.
On our way out, there was also a sannidhi for Sri Lakshmi Narayanar.
There was enough time for just one more temple
in Kumbakonam before proceeding to Thirukadayur and we decided on Chakrapani.
We had to wait here for some time for darshan.
This is the only temple where the Lord is in the roopam of Chakrathaazhwar as main deity! After darshan
here, we had darshan of Vijayavalli Thayar, I recalled that my mother was
named Vijayalakshmi after this Goddess!
After this we headed straight to Thirukadayur.
On the way, Suja started stringing the champanki
she had bought in Kumbakonam as beautiful as she always does to be offered to
their kula deivam.
Thirukadayur
– Abirami temple
After a very brief darshan of Lord Amirthakadeswarar and Goddess Abirami Ammai at the ever-crowded temple of
Thirukadayur, we headed to Angala Parameswari temple in this town itself.
Thirukadayur
– Angala Parameswari temple
This is the kula
deivam of Jagan. Suja had plans to offer Maavilaku at the temple. We all relaxed at the temple when she
prepared for Maavilaku.
After Maavilaku, we had darshan of Abhishekam of Angala parameswari followed by deeparathanai.
The delicious chakara pongal, pulianchaadam and thayirsadam offered to the Goddess was our lunch along with some
crispy chips bought on the way. After a delicious meal, the sleepy lot had some
lazy discussion eating the maavilaku
maavu as additional dessert. Soon it was time to leave for Sirgazhi. On the
way we stopped from some coffee.
Sirgazhi
I was amazed by the size of Sirgazhi temple! The
sannidhi of the God and Goddess are
two separate temples! We first prayed at Lord Shiva’s sannidhi – called Brahmapureeswarar. As we went around the sannidhi, people were pointing above
where the window of Sattainathar sannidhi
was visible. When we reached the staircase, we were disappointed to note that
Thoniappar and Sattainathar sannidhi
will be opened only by 5 pm. We were not very confident about waiting for same
as we had plans of visiting Vaitheeswaran Koil before dinner and catching the
train. But Suja and Rajni who were familiar with the temple insisted that first
timers like me do not miss it. We went around the prakaram outside with the feel that the temple badly needed some
renovation!
We then proceeded to Ambal sannidhi crossing the huge temple tank – Brahma theertham.
This is the place where
Thirugnanasambandar had darshan of
the Lord and Goddess and was fed milk by the Goddess. There were many posters
around stating that the Thirumulaipaal urchavam
had taken place recently. Ambal
Thirunilai Nayaki aka Sthira Sundari, (I love the way the name has been
translated from Sankrit to Tamizh and vice versa!) in standing posture blessed
us all. Iccha sakthi, Kriya sakthi
and Gnana sakthi are some of the koshta deivams around the sannidhi of the Goddess. We had to wait
some time before darshan, so some photo session also happened.
On our way back from the Goddess’s sannidhi, seeing a lot fish in the theertham, we fed some pori to them.
By this time, the sannidhi upstairs was open. We climbed the stairs to have darshan of Thoniappar and Periyanayaki.
I was zapped to see the size of the idols! It was so beautifully made that we
could see the nerves running through the Lord’s open chest!
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| courtesy:google |
This is the Lord
and Goddess who gave darshan to
Thirugnanasambandar. They are seated on a boat signifying that during pralayam, Thoniappar (thoni meaning boat), along with Goddess
Periyanayaki, carried things necessary for procreation and sailed in a boat!
Having had our fill, we climbed one more floor to have darshan of Sattainathar. We could see only from the window and it
was not a very clear darshan. I hear different versions about this Lord from
the net one of which is that this is Lord Bhairavar who controlled Lord
Narasimha!
Satisfied with the darshan we got into the van to go to Vaitheeswaran koil.
Goddess Thayalnayaki sannidhi was crowded for deeparathanai,
but we had a great darshan of
Vaitheeswaran. With special prayers for improvement of health of people close
to us, we came out to offer uppu and milagu for health. We had a bit of prasadam and had a very peaceful darshan of Goddess as all the crowd had
cleared by then. Next was the sannidhi
of Selvamuthukumaraswamy (what an endearing name) and on pradakshinam we prayed at the sannidhi
of Sevvaai, this temple being the Angarahan sthalam in the Navagrahas
temples around Kumbakonam.
Next stop was for a delicious dinner of idly and dosa with very refreshing buttermilk at Ramana's in
Aaduthurai. It was time to go to the
station to catch Uzhavan Express.
Completing yet another religious trip
successfully covering some Kula deivams
as planned, we all settled for the night looking forward to go back to our
routine on Monday!
Hope the Lord of Tirupathi gives us darshan soon as this is the next
religious trip we tentatively planned!